The April Edition: Düsseldorf's Little Tokyo, San Francisco's Lunar-Inspired Lounge, and Severance 🌸
"Your outie loves Chinese food”
Welcome to the second edition of Golden Hour!
I woke up this morning to discover that I’ve passed 100 subscribers. What on Earth did I do to deserve all of you?! Thank you for giving this Substack a chance and for making me one very happy gal. I have to give a huge shoutout to
for believing in my little publication enough to recommend it to her readers and select my piece as her first GuestStack post. If you’re here because of her—hi, and welcome!Let’s get to the good stuff, shall we? Every month, I’ll kick off with a kitchen-sink roundup of things I’ve loved, learned, or stumbled upon over the past month. Here’s my April brain dump:
I’m in denial that Severance Season 2 is a wrap. I wince when it’s Friday and the Apple TV page does not refresh. I blast Mr. Milchick and the Department of Choreography and Merriment’s performance on YouTube often, loudly and shamelessly. But one of the real stars of this past season was Eng’s—the upstate New York Chinese restaurant in Episode 6 (“Attila”) where Mark is wolfing down plates of food and Helena voraciously eyes both food and man. I’ve since discovered that Eng’s is truly an institution, two years shy from its 100th birthday. I won’t try to retell the fascinating life story of owners Tom and Faye Sit—still grinding impressively in their 80s—because they’ve told it in the best way themselves.
I have a love-hate relationship with lists, but whenever Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants or James Beard Nominations drop, I’m tuned in. In the last few weeks, both lists revealed a glossy new lineup, with some familiar faces. It’s a win to see Asian chefs earning their stripes in fine dining, as well as industry experts showing home-cooked magic some love. Personally, I’m most excited to check out these three spots: Gaggan in Bangkok (I know that choosing #1 is predictable, but I need to know what keeps this man at top spot year after year), JL Studio in Taichung (Taichung’s stepping into the spotlight as an F&B destination to watch after debuting the world’s first Michelin-starred ice cream shop, Minimal, last year), and anything by The Fried Rice Collective in California and the DMV area (because that name is too good).
Did you know that Din Tai Fung—the beloved, Taiwan-founded xiao long bao soup dumpling chain with outposts in more than 13 countries—first started serving meals on EVA Air 23 years ago? If that partnership surprises you, I’m right there with you. While this experience is currently only available to business class passengers (what diabolical gatekeeping!), I’m holding out hope that one day, from humble row 46, I too can enjoy braised beef noodle soup at 35,000 feet.
Since Berlin and I are still in the honeymoon phase, and everything still feels shiny and new, I’m going to throw in a local gem each month. Last week, I had dinner at the newly opened REI Bar & Izakaya. To only call it a “bar” feels inaccurate, and “izakaya” doesn’t quite capture it either. It’s more like the love child of a speakeasy, neighborhood hangout, and listening lounge—the kind of place I’d take out-of-town friends to show them exactly why I love this city. The cocktails are flavorful—My favorite is the “Not A Name Yet,” a smoky-sweet blend of mezcal, lychee cordial, and oat milk. The food goes beyond bar bites—I’m already planning my return for the katsu spicy quail eggs.
Last November, my husband and I decided to do something very German for our first Thanksgiving in Germany: Hit up the Christmas markets.
We were torn between Düsseldorf and Nuremberg, ultimately landing on Düsseldorf because of one simple reason that had nothing to do with Christmas markets: It’s home to one of Europe’s largest Japanese communities and Little Tokyo scenes. If there was a place that could help balance out the copious amounts of Kartoffelpuffer and Glühwein we were about to consume, this would be it.
To give some context on the origins of the Düsseldorf-Japan connection: After World War II, Japan looked for ways to rebuild itself. Düsseldorf’s steel industry, industrialization, and proximity to Europe’s largest river port made it an attractive location to expand to. Over time, the Japanese community grew to over 15,000 in and around Düsseldorf, and Little Tokyo was born. Today, Immermannstraße—the beating heart of Little Tokyo—is as electric and lively as ever, with some of the best Japanese food I’ve ever had just behind a glimmering row of window displays. I loved Düsseldorf, and I’ve been eager to share why.
BREAKFAST: Growing up, birthday celebrations in my house always came with a bonus: leftover cake became breakfast the next day. I know that not everyone supports a 9am sugar high, but even now as I’m married to one of those breakfast purists, that hasn’t stopped me. If you’re team sweet tooth, start your day at Wakaba Japan Shop & Café with a matcha latte (or matcha chocolate macchiato, or maybe a matcha cappuccino!) and a slice of their delicious roll cake or mille crêpe, available in matcha, black sesame, and hojicha flavors. All their matcha comes directly from a factory in Uji, using tea leaves grown in Kagoshima. For the savory-loving crowd, lunch will be your moment, with omurice and curry options on the menu.
LUNCH: Soba-An proves that soba—often the unsung hero of Japanese cuisine outside of Japan—can absolutely hold its own against other carbs. The icing on top is that Tamaki Hamano, Germany’s only female soba master, works here. For my lunch, I opted for a tempura soba set with a side of inari, and while I was too full for dessert (a first!), the soba mochi and soba pudding looked phenomenal.
AFTERNOON SNACK: Make a quick stop at cozy KUMO Dorayaki & Soft Ice, where dessert-making is a performance in itself. If you order a Mont Blanc, it’ll be hard to look away as the spaghetti-like purée swirls down and coats the ice cream. The chestnut flavor takes me right back to my childhood in Shanghai, where my mom used to frequently buy chestnut cake (栗子蛋糕) for the whole family. Though a staple in East Asia, chestnut flavor is still a rare find elsewhere. Give it a try if it’s your first time—it might just surprise you.
DINNER & DRINKS: I want to start by saying that 1oder8 is standing room only, so be prepared to be on your feet the whole time. But if you are able and willing to stand, this place will transport you straight to a Tokyo izakaya at midnight and it’ll be worth it. Picture flames licking the hood in the open kitchen and the sound of karaage crackling in hot oil, as the irresistible scent fills the air. Koki Takahashi, the mastermind behind 1oder8, has lived many lives—from studying under a Kaiseki legend in New York to working as a photographer in the Netherlands. And I can tell you this: Some of the most tender karaage I’ve ever had was here, all paired with a Toki Highball packed with a punch.
If standing while eating is not your cup of tea, just around the corner is Tonkatsu GONTA. Run by the same folks behind Soba-An (Brickny Europe GmbH, started by Saeki Haruhiko), GONTA only does one thing—make katsu—but they do it extremely well.
BONUS: This one’s a bit off the eating-and-drinking track, but I kept seeing Jimu Kobayashi’s elegant and minimalistic ceramics sitting on shelves around town—in the trendy concept store BEYOND STUDIOS, and at local café favorite Rösterei VIER. I couldn’t resist shouting him out here. If you’re interested in visiting Jimu’s studio in Düsseldorf, you can book an appointment here.
Moongate Lounge in San Francisco had been on my radar for awhile, because of all the chatter I had heard about its interior design and cocktails. I finally got to check it off my list last year—and now it holds an even more special place in my heart, because it’s where my husband and I had our final date night before moving away from the Bay Area.
Owned by chef Brandon Jew and Anna Lee—who first opened its iconic sister restaurant and downstairs neighbor, Mister Jiu’s—Moongate Lounge lives up to its name, housing their liquor display in a circular “moongate” shape inspired by traditional Chinese garden archways. Designed by Steph Wong-Swig Architects, this space blends tradition and modernity, drawing on past decades and future visions, like a Wong Kar-wai film crossed with a spinoff of The Fifth Element.
One of the most beautiful touches is the restored 1940’s mural, which depicts two of the Eight Immortals from Chinese mythology—Han Xiangzi playing a flute and He Xiangu offering him a peach. The plush red velvet booths, bold teal lounge chairs, and porthole-style “skylight” come together to create a luxurious and eye-catching space—and the perfect setting for a great night out.
This section doesn’t usually focus on travel, but it’s another chance to spotlight amazing Asian creators, so I hope you’ll read just a little bit more!
ENJOYED a magical hour at Berlin-based fashion designer William Fan’s boutique. While the street-facing store, Fan Plaza, offers a selection of lovely accessories and gifts, some of the best finds are tucked away in the back house. Through his designs, William pays a subtle but striking homage to his Chinese roots (think: mandarin collars, knotted buttons, and flowing sleeves), all while keeping that effortlessly cool Berlin vibe.
EXCITED TO WATCH the 2025 remake of the 1993 romantic comedy The Wedding Banquet, which had the elder Chinese generation everywhere clutching their pearls after its first release. The cast is fantastic, and while there’s a fresh twist to the original story, the core essence remains the same. Here’s the IMDB one-liner: “A gay man makes a deal with his lesbian friend: a green-card marriage for him, in exchange for in vitro fertilization treatments for her.” Intrigued yet?
DISCOVERED Mallorca-based artist Tamara K. Lloyd-Cox, founder of Cocowear, who designs everything from relaxed-fit shorts to bucket hats to help you get summer-ready. I absolutely love her artwork, which you can also purchase as prints. Her style is whimsical, abstract, and vibrant, with motifs that beautifully nod to her Asian heritage.
Thank you so much for reading my newsletter, and hope you enjoyed it! If there’s anything you loved or didn’t quite connect with, I’d love to hear your thoughts. Your feedback is truly appreciated and will help me make this a more enjoyable read for you!
Until next time, Laura x
Oooh must check out Moongate Lounge!!
Oh I love Dusseldorf ! I had my best haircut there once!