Bonus: A Local’s Mini Guide to Shanghai
My tried-and-true picks for where to eat, drink, and soak up China's most electric city.
Earlier this month, I asked my readers what bonus article they wanted most: a mini city guide, a detailed hotel spotlight in Asia, an interview with a tastemaker, or a personal travel story. The votes are in, and mini city guide wins! So, welcome to my hometown: Shanghai, China.
As a fifth-generation Shanghainese, I’ve explored countless gems over the years — not just my own, but also my mom’s, my grandma’s, my second cousin’s… you get the gist. Consider this my family’s unofficial guide to staying well-fed and inspired in Shanghai!
[ STAY ] CAPELLA SHANGHAI, JIAN YE LI (480 West Jianguo Road)
Shanghai’s hotel scene is stacked with your usual 5-star suspects, which is par for the course in Asia’s biggest cities, where Peninsulas and Mandarin Orientals claim prime real estate in the glossiest skyscrapers. But some feel like meaningful luxury — where time slows down and the atmosphere turns intimate: Capella Shanghai is one of those sanctuaries.
Tucked inside the city’s last remaining cluster of Shikumen (stone-gated townhouses that blend Chinese and Western architecture), this hotel has 55 villas, serene gardens, a fully decked-out spa (flotation tanks and all), and a Michelin-starred restaurant. My great-grandmother once lived in a Shikumen house where my mom used to race around as a kid, so I can’t pretend this recommendation isn’t a biased and sentimental one.
[ EAT ] FOUR SEASONS FARM 四季农圃 (137 Tianping Road Road)
It feels cruel to recommend just one restaurant, because there are so many good ones. I’ll go with my newest favorite among the Shanghainese cuisine heavyweights: 四季农圃 (loosely translated as Four Seasons Farm?). I’m not even sure it has an official English name (a sign of authenticity to me), but I borrowed the translation from a blogger named J and I like it! And if there is an official English name, my apologies in advance.
The environment is elegant, the service is on point, and the food is sensational. When Shanghainese folks dine out, we often start with a few appetizers known as 冷菜 (cold dishes), even if not all of them are technically cold. I’d recommend doing the same. If you like fish, try the 上海烤子鱼 (listed as “Shanghai Flavor Roasted Mullet” on the menu). It’s a little sweet and super flavorful. For the main dishes, you can’t go wrong with the 上海酱方 (Shanghai-Style Stewed Pork Cubes) and the 蟹粉豆腐 (Stewed Crab Meat with Tofu).
After lunch, take a stroll around the neighborhood. “Four Seasons Farm” is smack dab in the middle of the Former French Concession, which is my favorite part of the city and where I grew up. The streets are shaded by parasol trees, keeping things cool even in the summer; and the French-style architecture still shapes the whole neighborhood’s look, giving a faintly “Are we still in China?” feel. This whole area is a social media influencer hotspot on weekends, but on weekdays, you’ll find a much calmer vibe.
[ DRINK ] CONSTELLATION (Several locations around the city)
There are certainly sexier spots in the city when it comes to cocktail innovation and interior design, like Sober Company and The Odd Couple, but Constellation will always be my nostalgic pick.
Many of the watering holes I frequented when I was younger are now closed, but Constellation — 25 years strong with five locations across the city — feels like a permanent tattoo (I once knew them by their not-so-imaginative names like Constellation 1 and Constellation 3).
As China’s very first whisky bar, it’s a quiet staple on the cocktail bar scene. The decor is unfussy. The Old Fashioned hits just right. Anthony Bourdain even drank here before crashing a wedding on an episode of Parts Unknown, and said the Moscow Mule was good.
[ SEE ] THE BUND
Me telling you to see the Bund is like a Parisian telling you to see the Louvre. Obvious, but worth it. You don’t need to hit all 22 buildings along the Huangpu River, but time flies by when you’re leisurely strolling past these Neoclassical, Baroque, and Art Deco gems. The Bund’s heritage buildings once housed some of the most powerful foreign institutions during Shanghai’s Gilded Age in the 1920s and 1930s. If you’re an architecture or history buff, you’ll love this stretch. If you’d rather just soak in the killer views, there should be a rooftop cocktail bar every few buildings or so.
Step into Three on the Bund, and you’ll find that the 109-year old former Union Building has been transformed into a stylish hub of art, food, and shopping. Keep walking and you’ll get to Bund No. 12, the former HSBC building and once the largest bank building in Asia. Just inside the entrance, if you look up, you’ll see a beautiful dome mosaic ceiling decorated with frescos. Before the Cultural Revolution, an architect had the foresight to cover it up with stucco, so it wouldn’t be destroyed. It stayed hidden until it was rediscovered in 1997 to everyone’s amazement.
If you have the time and the stomach for heights, head across the Huangpu River to Pudong (the east bank). Flair Rooftop Restaurant & Bar on the 58th floor of the Ritz-Carlton has a breathtaking view. On a clear day, as dusk starts to rolls in, the Bund glows golden below and it’s impossible to miss, even from up high.
[ DO ] GET A MASSAGE
Massages in Shanghai are solid, and more affordable than what you’d pay in most major cities. Make an afternoon of it and get those knots worked out. There’s a whole range in terms of style and setting — from Thai to Swedish, and from more bare-bones to full of bells and whistles. There’s a large number of blind massage therapists and parlors as well. Personally, I’m a fan of Zen Massage on Fuxing West Road — soft in vibe, but ruthless when it comes to deep tissue work.
QUICK TIP
When in Shanghai, take Google Maps with a grain of salt. Most of the locals don’t use it, so chances are you’re reading a 1-star review from a one-off, dissatisfied tourist. If you’d like to download another reviews app while you’re there, Dianping will give you more accurate results (if you don’t mind doing a little translating!).
Hope you enjoyed reading this! If you’re looking for more recommendations, feel free to reach out. I’m happy to be your tour guide from afar.
Until next time, Laura x
Moves this city right on up to the top of my list. Thank you for sharing this gem!
I miss Shanghai all the time. So much that I could never imagine. Even when I was visiting there, I could constantly find myself thinking, “how nice to walk in my city and listen to my people speaking Shanghainese..”
Now the depression got worse every time when I land in Sweden…
hmmm, Shanghainese food is always a comfort then. I have 泡饭 & 榨菜 to ease my homesick, by the time I swallow them like I did for all the
decades before, my heart is in place.